the party place, the place of party

We arrived in Koh Phangan with mixed feelings, some apprehension (as we know this island as the 'party place') and some sense of adventure, knowing that we will have to work a little harder to find the vibe we are looking for. Getting off the ferries, here, you are accosted with touts for guesthouses and hotels, and it makes for a great way to strike a deal. We chose the only male tout, topless, with a half burnt cigarette hanging haphazardly from his chatty lips - we thought it a good choice.
We spent 4 days in Haad Yao, which is a relatively touristy area on the west coast of K.P, but the guesthouse we stayed in was nestled on a private beach, which would have been amazing if it didnt rain for four straight days! Feeling a wave of cabin fever, we decided to head to the northern tip of the island (at no fault of our Hunter Thomspon-esque owner, who made for a great first impression of the island) and made a trek to Choloklum, the small fishing pier village at the North of the island. Originally wanting to stay for a night or two, we crashed for 4 days in a bungalow that was on the water, surrounded by a secluded beach, and filled our bellies with great food. The area had a huge array of coffee choices (mmm), a great bookshop and wonderful local food. 

Remember the german couple, Eric and Tina, that we snorkelled with on paradise island? we received a message from them on our 3rd day in Choloklum, saying that they had driven by us in a tuk-tuk! Imagine, we meet again! The next day we met in the town and prepared ourselves for a  hike over the mountain to secluded Bottle Beach (usually reached by boat). The trail was marked by bottles attached to trees with no roads, people, quads, scooters or tourists in sight - and as a group we decided (although we blamed Eric the entire hike for our burning thighs) that it was time for an adventure!

2.5 hours later, we reached Bottle Beach - much to the surprise of everyone that we had hiked! The consensus among the locals was that they had
a) only done the hike once in their lives and
b) we really deserved our beer

Bottle Beach was beautiful, and completely secluded. As this was one of the areas that we had wanted to stay, we were glad to have made a day trip and experienced the beach (but were happy not to stay .... a bit too secluded and the prices of food/drink reflected this)

The next day we needed to decide if we were to stay longer or move on. We enjoyed our hike, after dinner and after drinks to a little bit too late of a time the night before, so we decided that we would stay another night and let the guesthouse know in the morning.
By some twist of fate, the forces did not allow us to stay where we were (prebooked/full? we still dont know what happened, we think she kicked us out because we didnt eat at her restaurant) and all of the other places in the village were full or too close to the locals Temple Festival that was happening all week.

With nowhere to go, we decided to follow our friends and stay at Mae Haad beach ..... and what luck this was! Mae Haad is a cove in the NW, and the bungalows we stayed in were under construction - which meant less formalities (the staff were amazing!) and no one cared that we made our own food and drank our own drinks! On our first night, we treated ourselves to a bonfire - and cooked mixed veggies, potatoes and baked beans on an open fire. The owners BBQ'd squid and made us a big plate to share, and what a treat this was!  The night was completed with Eric's minimal tech DJ set and the soothing sound of waves 25 feet away as the backdrop.

The next night, we headed back up to Choloklum to experience the Temple Festival (a week long party surrounding the village's temple). The scene can only be compared to what we know as a fair, or stampede. Thai's are perpetual snackers and rarely go 2-3 hours without eating small portions of roadside food. The same was at the festival, and the grounds were lined with carts full of fried things of all imagination, sweets, fruit shakes, thai tea shakes and of course the fair-ubiquitous beer garden.Outside the food arena there was about 2 km of walking markets/outdoor markets that sold every piece of plastic tool you could ever want with a few second hand clothing markets and rip off American DVD's  in between.
The first visit to the grounds was on a beautiful day, and the grounds were packed! Starting around 9 pm, there was a concert-style stage set up and bands began to perform....the second night (which was suppose to be the 'big party night') was amidst the 14 days stretch of non stop rain we have had, which unfortunately effected the crowds.....but it made for great plastic bargain shopping and a good excuse to eat hot food under the tarps!
We learned a lesson this night - as the first night we spent at the festival we had decided to end the night early, knowing that we wanted to 'save' some of the experience for the 'big' night. Our friends Eric and Tina stayed out, and we ended up missing out on the performance festivities because of this. Next time, we stay and experience twice if need be!

A few days later our friends left (we were both very sad, as it was nice to spend time with people we had really connected with!) and we were on our own again. Deciding that we didn't want to leave where we were, but wanting to visit the other areas of the island, Amaris and Trevor commenced their first ever SCOOTER EXPERIENCE. As it had been raining heavy for quite some days, many areas were muddy/pot-holie/tourist death traps masked as roads, and it made for an interesting ride at some parts. While Amaris had to hammer the helmet on over her dreads (poor, poor next purple scooter helmet wearer)  Trevor had a Marlon-Brando-on-a-Harley look because of his new long hair, and opting for the non purple helmet offered him the luxury of a chin strap (luuuucky). Trevor experienced ALL the fun -  as he was both completely searched by a Bangkok Police Road Block (oh god, scary, because of the Full Moon Party the night before) and was an apparent magnet for dogs who thought he looked like a good guy to run in front of.
All in the all the day went by accident free, and it turned out to be a beautiful way to see the island without having to work up a sweat!

After many days of rain, reading and more backgammon than you can say 'best out of three' to, we decided it was time to head over to the Andaman side of things to begin the with-mom portion of the trip...... a long day of traveling that include our first 'duped in thailand' adventure (that Trevor was smart enough not to fall for) we have arrived in Phuket and will remain for a few more days before heading South. Apparently the rain is inescapable, and has left the locals bewildered as it neither the season or a normal for this many straight hours and days... but we are toughing it out like the rest.

Nage avec Le Requin

So, we spent a great few days on Turtle Island! The place we stayed was just 15 minutes outside of the hustle bustle of the main village of Sairee. Which was nice because even at this distance we often fell asleep to the sounds of thumpy bass. Thanks to years spent sleeping behind the portal, this was easily tolerable. We had an amazing little cottage style bungalow up the cliff side from the ocean with a spectacular view (and a big tree perfectly blocking the evening sun. This along with the sea breeze kept our evenings made in the shade) and a hammock to laze in! We spent our first day being lazy reading and swimming. The next day we went for a good hike, with the intention of making it to Two View lookout, which is supposed to have a nice view of both the east and the west coast. Somewhere along the way we apparently made a left instead of a right, or something like this, and after about an hour or so realized we were going somewhere else. We eventually did find a lookout and a pretty cool and isolated buddhist monastary with some hiking trails spreading out from it, and settled. The hike down was just as much fun as it was fairly steep. We came across one of the coolest and creepiest looking spiders we've ever seen. Got a good photo too!

The next day we went out on a snorkeling trip around the island. The taxi picked us up at 8:30 and we boarded the boat around 9. The taxi picked up another BC couple from the island and once on the boat we met some more bc islanders. The first stop of the day was in Shark Bay, in which we were told, ironically enough, that there aren't many sharks. Everyone was pretty eager to jump in and right away there was swirls of color moving below us. Amaris even blew my mind and dove right in ahead of most and led the way. About ten minutes in, we hear a guy yell "SHARK", now this is something i didn't think would make me happy to hear, but surprisingly enough i was stoked and off we went in the direction of the yell. Amazingly, right in front of us about 4 meters or so away was a shark. Again, Amaris the Brave, pulling out all the stops, has a huge grin on her face and we both start chasing it. But without fins we had no chance. Pulling our heads out of the water we discussed with the group around us how cool that was. On the way back to the boat, another (or the same, who knows) went by right below me, too quick for me to get others attention in time, and it was gone, leaving me to be the only one to see him. What a priveledge! How cool to be this close. When we got back on the boat and started boasting we realized we were the only ones to see sharks. Our day was made. The rest of the day was filled with beautiful fish and coral. Others of the group actually knew what we were looking at, which made it even more exciting. The last stop was at the island of Koh Nang Yuan. Which was pretty cool scenery but if you google it youv'e seen it and the resort really ruined the vibe (the beer was more expensive than at home). But we found a good hike and took some sweet pictures. The last couple of days were spent doing the usuall, collecting daily groceries, planning our next trip. We even splurged on lunch and found a great pizza place. This being the first pizza (or real cheese even) in four months. It was a reeeallly good pizza.

Next stop Ko Phangan!

Paradise Island - somewhere you've never been before.

Ill start by saying that we made a blood oath to repeat this place to no one. i like my blood, and my life. no names.

Our first Island, our first getaway. An hour and a half ferry ride (after 12 hours on a bus, spent hungover sitting next a group of monks rubbing camphor oil all over themselves, which was surprisingly wonderful) and we arrived to the oasis. Trevor and I decided to 'keep it cheap' and walk to our destination (a couple was waiting at the peir to show us their bamboo huts) instead of taking the 60 ฿ taxi (taxi means old man driving a 25 year old scooter, and 60 baht is roughly $2 dollars).

A few marital squabbles later (are you seeing a pattern? being cheap in 40 degrees after being awake all night doesnt lend well) along with 2km past and 6 litres of sweat each, the owners of our guesthouse worried for our risk of dehydration - and came to pick us up on their personal motorbikes. We werent even halway there.

We arrive to a gorgeous, shaded grounds with 10 huts made completely of bamboo. The walls are thatched stripping of the bark, the beams, studs and floor beams are made from whole bamboo logs and the roof is thatched leafs. Our bed was draped with clean white sheets and a mosquito net. The bathroom was an outdoor oasis, and we got the experience (for the first time) showering outside. We dropped our bags and began to explore the rest of the island.

Koh _______ is a relatively uninhabited, undeveloped island that is small enough to walk from end to end and side to side within a few hours. There is a small village, servicing the tourist action of the island with a few restaurants, a general store and motorbike hire. This is the first (and so far last) area that is devoid of a 7-11 and ATM's (a breath of fresh air). The beer was cheap (40฿ for a large chang, about $1.25, which is two beers in a large bottle) and being able to shop at the local store we were able to eat a wonderful mix of fresh fruit (local, organic papaya, pineapple, watermelon, apples and banans) mixed with muesli and yogurt for breakfast, home made veggie sandwiches for lunch and a local cuisine for supper. At our favorite place to eat, they had a pet girl monkey. At first upset, I asked the owners (a Thai woman and French man) why they had a pet monkey.... the Thai woman told me that she had gone to Burma (Myanmar) to visit friends, and the local people had shot a monkey, which had turned out to have a baby. The village was going to let the baby fend for itself, and she said that when she went to find it, it was malnourished and scared. She has kept the monkey ever since, and the restaurant is adorned with photos of the monkey being raised from a baby (she had her own play area with a large wooden structure to live in... and strangely enough loved being around men, but didnt like women much. competition?)

Our days here were filled with reading, swimming, stretching, reading, swimming, reading.... you get the point. We enjoyed many beautiful walks around the island, and were able to truly relax and spend some time together as a couple (in public) for the first time since leaving home. Exhausted from so much relaxation, our second to last day was spent on a snorkelling trip with a few of the people we had become great friends with during our stay (we call this island stint the 'Commune Experience" as here we met people that we spent a lot of time together in the same common space) .....








Snorkelling was amazing! At first I was afraid (I was petrified) and so in order to remove ourselves from fear Tina and I (the girl in the front right of photo) decided to wear life jackets. These served 3 purposes, for those interested.
1. We couldnt drown during a freak out episode (which happened while accidentally bumping into someone, even seeing rocks under the sand were cause for some seriously scary moments).
2. We were impenetrable to sharks teeth.
3. As Camille (girl, back left) so adequately called us while we swam bright and bulky, "Enforcement Squad" was here to let the ocean know we had arrived, so a shark couldnt 'accidentally bump into us" as we had read happened so often in these 'unusual' cases of man eating sharks.

In truth, we didnt see much ( a few bright fish and some epically scary dark rock formations) but the day was amazing, fun filled and solidified a pretty cool friendship with some pretty cool people.

Tired of relaxing, we decided to leave Koh _______ and head over to Koh Tao, the island famous for diving and snorkelling. To get there first, we spent two night in Chumphon, a 'transfer' type town. Chumphon was fun for the few nights, and we spent the day covering the town by foot, the afternoon shopping in a MASSIVE second hand store (I truly believe that a second hand store is a window to a country's soul) and the night eating fried food in the night market.

The next morning we were off on a 7 am ferry (morning have become the roughest thing to endure), set to arrive in Koh Tao 3 hours later. Safe, sound and an Amaris-wardrobe malfunction later (yup) we are here .... and have much to add in our next blog.

Drum and Bass Bass Bass

it is difficult, for us anyways, to write a blog that we feel is emotional and content. we are unable to use the computer when we feel inspired and are left to remember (often hazy) times sometimes weeks later. this is one of those memories that i forgot until 2 days after writing the last blog - and there have been many others. this is for my bass head friends.

we have heard many 'electronic' beats (its a thing of the backpackers life to listen to thumping beats and try and relive the 60's) most of the trance variety, and many claiming to be electro or drum and bass (but on hearing are just obnoxious trance, worse trance than those being honest about playing trance at their parties). While we are not the 'partying type', we are forced to listen to the bass lines swinging amongst the trees on some nights (mainly in parts of India) and Amaris has been craving some serious bass (bass bass bass).

Flash to Bangkok. Much shameless partying by those around us, none by us (Rhianna anyone?  I can now sing all the words to all Justin Beiber's songs. true fact) and once again Amaris is craving some bass bass bass. A young fella hands me a flyer, saying "Drum and Bass tonight". I ask if it is real drum and bass or trance that wants to be drum and bass. He laughs. Good sign. I force Trevor to run back to our guest house (its already 1130 and i felt, for some reason, that it was necessary to run home) get changed grab a beer and run to the small, dark, cramped coffee house that the flyer is advertised for.

and it was there that i danced my dripping sweat dreadlocks flying shoeless face off to some unknown, thai girl spinning  SICK hard core drum and bass with the man dancing just as hard next to me. it was epic.... and i missed my peeps there for sure!

The "badger" and "burrow" are now famous in both India and Thailand. true fact. It was no Shambhala, but we smiled at the end of it the same.